Nice, France - nice, just nice...

If Paris is considered the northern part of France, then Nice (pronounced Nis) is definitely can be considered the south. It has a Mediterranean climate, so you can watch people flying kites in winter. It is breezy and very soothing to just walk along the road, watching the soft rolling waves with stories they carried with them those thousands of years. (Our hotel room was just one street behind this beach front.)

After going on the long and winding road to the French Riviera, taking a breather as we stayed a night in Nice was indeed a wonderful choice. It is because when I was in Nice, I needn't do anything, it was just relaxing, soothing, just enjoy, no fuss, breezy, lullaby, yeah, that kind of wanting to just sit and do nothing, or can't even think of anything else to do.

There was practically nothing else to do except to eat and shop. Lafayette is also in Nice, as big if not bigger than the one in Paris. People thronged the 5- (or is it 6-?) storey high shopping mall throughout its opening hours. It was packed. People were everywhere, from the sidewalk stalls selling leather bags to silk scarfs to all sort of wine bottle corkscrew opener. Just amazing how the wine-drinking people really sit down and think of all the ways to pull the cork out of the wine bottle, some creations were astounding.

The sidewalk cafes and the restaurants served lots of seafood. I observed many people eating many types of shellfish over a steaming black pot, they have another smaller black pot for them to dispose of the empty shells. But I guess, if it were here in Asia, we would have lots of variety, maybe we would have cooked it teochew style, or fry them with belachan or dipped the shellfish into our hot chilly sauce. Or maybe because all the seafood here in Nice were fresh, so it was best eaten by just slightly steaming them over hot water. Moreover, it was winter, so I guess a hot soup base seafood can stay hot longer outdoors.

I like walking in the local market to see their local produce. There were rows and rows of flowers, especially Lavender.

Lavender somehow takes on a suppleness as if you were cuddled in a thousand thread satin bedsheet, smooth and sleepy. Yawn yawn yawn......with the lullaby from the sea in Nice, you sleep in perfect lavender sanctuary so safe you will forever have sweet dreams.

Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi

I was just lucky, I guess, to have such a wonderful weather when I was in Hanoi in November last year. Bach told me that they just had a week of flood, over knee-high water covered the whole of Hanoi after a continuous rainfall for days. It took the cityhall almost a week to clear the debris and mud that flooded the city. Cars were damaged and so were properties.

When I arrived, it was just a week of settling down after the flood. Everything seemed normal to me, if I was not told of the flood, I wouldn't have known. I did notice mud on the sidewalks, but that was like some leftover from construction sites. I was surprised when Bach told me about nature's onslaught.

Hanoi seems to be so resilient to a lot of going-ons or had-beens. And yet so humble and hard-working. It was really relaxing sitting beside Hoan Kiem Lake (Lake of the Returned Sword) while watching so many people also sitting around enjoying the peace albeit the noise of traffic around it. Everyone was doing something but I did not feel the busy-ness. Someone will approach me and tried to chat me up asking questions, speaking good English, about where I was from, what do I do, where do I lived, what is it like in Malaysia, and finally asking if I would like to get some of his books and postcards. I often like to talk to these sales people, I like the sincerity in them, I like the way they approach a sales and I also like the way they ask questions. They were so friendly, they were really interested to know about me as I would be interested to know about them too. I will look at the products, if I want to, I will buy but if I do not want them, I will just politely decline. The conversation was always smooth and no hassle. Anyway, I always welcome sales talk, I really like to just listen with an open heart, there is always something I can learn from the person who sits in front of me.

I sat at Hoan Kiem Lake overlooking the Tortoise Tower which has its remnant in the middle of the lake. The weather stayed between a cooling 20℃ to 28℃, a perfect temperature to sit outdoor. They have planted a lot of willow trees all around the lake, some have bent so low, they almost touch the water. The willows take to the flow of the wind and just sway softly along as if that is what they are there to do - all day long, just dance to the mischievous play of the wind.

I just sat beside the lake and read Somerset Maugham's "Of Human Bondage". Looking up occasionally to see people walking past and enjoying tea and having lunch everywhere beside the lake. I was impressed with the way Hanoi has built itself to be like a garden city where their citizens can come out to sit and play in the open. I guess we did not have that here in KL, no wonder the scene of people having food in a group at Hoan Kiem Lake fascinated me so much.

Just walking around the lake will bring you to the island-temple known as Ngoc Son Temple, very picturesque footbridge. I did not go in because I was more captivated with the scenery outside the temple. It was founded in the 14th century.

Bach told me later that the Vietnamese don't actually have a religion. So, I said what are they praying in the temples here in Hanoi. He said they are just praying to the ancestors. So, their ancestors become their "god", and this is passed down through generations. As far as he knows, there has never been a good teachings of Buddhism although Christianity has taken root after the war.


And I also learnt another thing, the people have to pay for education in Vietnam. I told Bach that in Malaysia, education is free from 7 years old onwards until we are 18 if we choose to stay on to study. Aren't we a fortunate lot to be Malaysians?

And then, more Pho for me. This was the first bowl of Pho when I arrived in Hanoi after getting the train ticket to SaPa. I sat down for something to eat. Looking around me, almost everyone ordered the same bowl of noodle. Since I could not communicate, I pointed to the bowl of noodle the person in front of me was eating, and then raised my index finger to show that I wanted 1 bowl. The shopowner nodded his head. A few minutes later, I was served a delicious clear soup Pho with duck meat. I asked the person sitting in front to take a photo of me eating Pho. Hahaha, tried to make friend while eating.


This last photo showed that these are all the "luggage" I had for my 5-day trip to Hanoi, SaPa and BacHa. A small pack and a sling bag. Oh yes, and my Somerset Maugham's engaging read.

SaPa, Vietnam - I don't know but everything was given

I have so many travel stories to tell, looking through my photos, I sometimes have no idea where to start. Which story to tell first or which photos to show first. By the time I scroll through my photos, the pang of writing has gone.

But today, I told myself I must write something. So, I thought of my Hanoi trip and I want to share with you the way I travel putting all my trust and faith in the power that moves the clouds and stops the rain.

I was given a free ticket from Citibank to travel to 4 places, ie Guangzhou, Hanoi, Krabi and Bangkok. But I can only choose 1 destination. Until today, I still do not know how I got the free ticket from Citibank, I do not hold a Citibank-AirAsia Credit Card so I got no clue how it arrived but I wrote a letter of gratitude to Citibank for the generous offer. Thank you once again!

I chose Hanoi because I have been to all the other 3. 

As you can see already, traveling is Me. I live, breathe, travel. So, after coming back from Bali, after about 2 weeks traversing the length of Bali to Jogja in July, I said to myself last year 2008, that I will perhaps rest for a while before embarking another long journey to USA in January 2009. But as my destiny has it set, a free ticket arrived in the mail in late September for me to take flight again. I said YES, of course, and immediately called to confirm my travel to Hanoi in mid-November. I can do so because I need not apply for leave or wait for my leave to be approved, that's the best part of my life - freedom!

And with freedom, there comes the trust and faith in all things possible.

No itinerary, no plans, don't know where to stay, don't know where to go, don't know what to do, don't even want to find out how to get from the airport to town etc. But when I told friends I had confirmed my trip to Hanoi, most of them kept recommending that I must go to SaPa. 

"Aiyoh, you must go to SaPa, many people, even the locals, told us that it is a very nice place to go." 

"So, did you go there?"

"No-lah, we have not enough time, but I heard verr-ry nice, go-lah! Next time when I go to Hanoi again, I will have more days, then I will go to SaPa."

So, I hear ye, I hear ye. Where is SaPa? Don't know. How to get there? Don't know. Where to stay? Don't know.

I did not even check online or try to find out more details.  I just took the flight ticket, went on board and knew that the pilot will know how to fly the plane to land safely in Noi Bai International Airport.

There I was, arrived safely in Hanoi on a beautiful Friday 14 Nov 2008. Breezy, cool and dry weather, temperature about 20℃, just excellent. I found to my delight there was a local bus direct to town at only VND25,000 (RM6) one-way. 

While I was on the bus, I tried to ask for direction to the train station. I just remembered someone told me that to go to SaPa, I can go by train. But, where is the train station? Don't know. So, I got to find out, but nobody spoke English on the bus, not even the girl who was supposed to be the "Customer Service Officer". She could speak a little English, so little that she did not know the word "train". Somehow, I knew she understood me but she could not verbalize her thoughts, she tried to explain, speaking in Vietnamese, I looked at her, blank. Oh, my lord. Now, I did not even know where to alight. I kept watching for sign. I looked to the rear of the bus and saw some Caucasian backpackers, I thought I will ask them later or where they stopped, I will alight with them too. But I kept watch on the "Train Station" signage, nowhere in sight. The bus kept going......

Finally, the group of backpackers with their inseparable Lonely Planet Guidebook started moving to the front of the bus, the bus stopped and they all started to alight, I quickly straddled forward and alighted the bus with them, thinking that they may be looking for the train station too and I can go with them. The Vietnamese girl waved frantically at me, I looked at her while the bus was about to move away. She kept waving at me and kept muttering in Vietnamese. I sensed something was not right. I just knew that she was trying to tell me that that was not the stop to go to the train station. I was in a dilemma, I looked at the bus inching to move on and I looked at the Caucasian backpackers, I quickly threw them a question whether or not they are looking for the train station, they replied no. I got it, I jumped back onto the bus again. Thanks to the girl!

Wow, that was an adventure by itself. I got down from the bus finally, thanking the young woman who so kindly helped me to stay put in the bus. Even though she did not give me the direction, she had just started off my trip in Hanoi with the most pleasant and sweet charm of her smile. 

I went into a hotel close to where the bus stopped and when I asked for the direction to the train station, I was given a name card with Hanoi city map printed at the back.  The woman at the counter roughly indicated where the railway station is, I used that small name card and found it, after walking for about 1 hour, asking several people on the way there.

I got into Hanoi at 9am, walked to the railway station and got a 9.55pm train ticket to SaPa on the same day.  So, what am I to do for 12 hours? I just walked in the city until I boarded the train that night.

The train stopped at Lao Cai the next morning at 6am, a border town that has a custom check point into China. The train ticket cost VND98,000 (RM26) one-way on a hard-seat coach. After arriving in Lao Cai, I needed to take a van (taxi) to SaPa which is another 40km into the mountainous route leading to the villages of the northern Vietnam minority tribes. I paid VND40,000 (RM10) for the taxi fare. Later, I saw the locals paid only VND30,000 (RM8).

But then, this is where the power that moves clouds and stop rain started to put the pieces together. On the van, I befriended 2 very friendly young Vietnamese men, Bach (pronounced Back) and Ha. As we begin to know each other better, I learnt that Bach means "One Hundred" in Vietnamese and Ha means "The River".  So, suddenly I was sent One Hundred Rivers, it may mean 100 ways to whatever....

It was a miracle to have Bach and Ha coming into the van at 7am, sat beside me and we started to chat. By the way, just think of it, how many people in Vietnam (minus all the travel guides) whom you meet can converse well in English? And who turned up in my life? Bach.

He spoke perfect English and fluent too. Both Bach and Ha were going to SaPa to do photography. They loved to take photographs as a hobby. It was a weekend, so both of them got together for a weekend photo outing to SaPa, and.........I happened to meet with them.

I ended up sharing a room with them, VND160,000 (RM42) for a room, so each paid about VND53,500 (RM13). We became buddies, we walked around SaPa together, I got myself an interpreter too, for Bach is an excellent buddy. And Ha just loves to laugh together.

I had a great time, we had great meals together, I followed them to BacHa, another village-town famous for its Sunday minority tribes market. Now, I don't know BacHa, I have never read about it, but I got to go there because of them.

Bach and Ha came back to Hanoi one day earlier while I stayed on in BacHa. When I got back to Hanoi, I arrived in Hanoi at 6am, I had until 7pm to catch my flight back to Kuala Lumpur. Bach and Ha asked me to call them when I was back in Hanoi. I did. And both of them, each on a motorbike, took me to eat the best original Pho (pronounced as Fer) in Hanoi. They zig-zag through the streets of Hanoi and after about 15 minutes ride, we ordered 3 bowls of large Pho in an old noodle shop I-don't-know-where but with unbeatable taste of Beef Pho!

Pho is usually served with thinly-sliced beef or beef balls in clear soup with rice noodles strips that taste like kuay-teow but much softer. Oh.....best.

And ...... being photographer themselves, they took my picture. Ohhhh......such a great picture of me eating Pho in authentic Vietnamese style.

We had a really extraordinary bond, all 3 of us. Like we had been in each other space before. We talked about so many things, we sipped tea at the roadside like the Vietnamese do while we chat. It was just wonderful.

We kept in touch through email. And here I extend to Bach and Ha my sincere hands clasped in the strength of fath for the most unforgettable bond of friendship!

Now, who could have put all these together for me? Hmmmm.....I wonder.

I don't know...

Disney Magic Kingdom - the happiest place on Earth

This is truly the happiest place on Earth. When I first heard about Disney World many years back, I thought, well, it is just another theme park. Then, 5 years ago, I went to Disney World in Tokyo and I had my first taste about this magic kingdom. I had a great time then. I did not, however, felt that much of the well-known caption - the happiest place on Earth, the "happy" and "magical" feeling as how Walt Diney put it somehow wasn't ticklish enough. I just enjoyed myself nevertheless. It was very cold in Tokyo when I was there. I had my thick jacket and all those clothing on while I ran around going through all the rides and games and 3-D visual shows.

This time I wanted to experience the BIG one, where everyone seems to tell me that if you have been to the Theme Parks in Orlando, you would have seen it all. Well, I wouldn't say that, I still want to go to the one in Hong Kong, because I believe each has its own uniqueness and magic.

But I would really want to say that in Orlando, the 3 theme parks I chose to visit for 3 consecutive days, were huge. The magnitude of the theme parks blew me away. I couldn't imagine how big that could be, but having so many theme parks here in Orlando, that has made it the city of the world's greatest theme parks, no doubt about it.

I walked and played so much the 1st and 2nd day, by the 3rd day, I was almost worn out. So tired. Imagine being in the adrenaline flow beginning on day 1 starting off at 7am, back in the hotel by 11pm. Then, start all over again the next day. It was like magic overdose. So, the 3rd day, I kinda paced myself and not get over excited. Well, that being said, you see, I cannot not get excited over all the games and the rides, because they were all so visual. They got into all my senses. How can I not get into it when I was enclosed in a space shuttle while I zoomed into light years riding my life zig-zagging into the meteorites and crash landed on Mars, that was senses stampede!

The first day, I chose Disney Magic Kingdom, with all the fairy tales with Mickey and Minnie inviting us into the park at 9am, its opening hour. The 2nd day, I chose Epcot Centre (the one with the huge Clobe), the futuristic city where I get to go into all the things we could think of in this millennia. Then, the 3rd day, I chose Universal Studio, where all the movies came to life, especially surviving the tornado in the movie Twister.

At the Universal Studios, we met with one of our favorite characters, the zany Simpsons. They even have an exhibition and a lot of memorabilia for the first lady of comedy of the sitcom "I Love Lucy" fame.

Before I signed up for this package, the travel agent suggested taking the 7-day 5 theme parks package. Fortunately, I did not. For me, 3 theme parks for a 5-day visit was already good enough. I needed the extra 2 days to breathe and get my head in normal order. I was so spun, I needed my bearing to stand on earth again.

We arrived in Orlando after having a day in Chicago. It was freezing. Chicago was -10c when we touched down. We got to find our own hotel, which we got one downtown at almost RM600 per night. But it was good, everything was within walking distance. The best was we managed to get 2 tickets to the current much talked about musical "Wicked". It was funny, entertaining and a fun-tastic show. Well, watching broadway in Chicago was really chic. Try it the next time when you are here.

We took a Korean Air flight, so it went to Chicago via Seoul. My flight schedule is KL-Seoul-Chicago-Birmingham-Honolulu-Seoul-KL. We will be boarding about 10 flights to get to all the destinations. This schedule is great because we get to stopover for a night in Chicago and Seoul with no extra charge on the flight ticket. Only need to pay for our accommodation.

Christmas 2008 with Hot Italian Sausages!

I had a merry-licious Christmas Eve. I made Hot Italian Sausage with thyme and mustard mix. 

I decided that I will stay home for Christmas Eve, have my own best meal, tuck into a warm Christmas-feel movie on Hallmark for a wonderful year end slumber. So, in the morning, I checked out some recipes and saw this browning dish that feels so warm and comfy on the page of a cookbook. Yes, this is what I will make instead of turkey and mince pies. 

I tried out this recipe for the first time. So easy to make and taste fantastically delectable. I bought Hot Italian Sausages and fresh thyme. I already had milk, olive oil, egg and flour at home to make the batter. The recipe asked for mustard seed. I thought I will be creative and used a pack of mix fenugreak, mustard, fennel seeds to add that funkiness to the taste. It turned out superbly delicious! The Italian Sausages were hot, the batter was spiced up with fresh thyme with the seeds, it was like eating sausages with salted fluffed oven-baked crunchy pancake.

I changed the recipe a little because I like some stuff so I added more instead :

Hot Italian Sausages with Fresh Thyme and Mustard Mix

Makes for 4 persons if you have appetizers and desserts, if not, 2 is hefty but it is alright ......

Preparation 30 minutes.

Cooking Time : 40 minutes

2 big onions, cut into wedges

5 huge Hot Italian Sausages (I like it hot, it adds a tinge of taste! You can choose any sausage.)

(or 8 small sausages)

Olive oil - enough to drizzle over the onion and sausage

for the batter

100g plain flour

1 egg

300ml milk (sometimes 250ml is enough, try it to see if batter is smooth but not thick)

2 tsp or more of mix mustard seeds (preferably with fenugreak, usually packed for making dhall curry)

1 tsp of fresh thyme leave (I think I put in more than this because it smells so good)

salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 200c
   
2. just arrange the wedges onion into a non-stick baking dish (9 x 12 inches or any size that can fit in all the sausages you bought with space in between after you have arranged them)
   
3. arrange the sausages on top of the onion, then trickle over the oil and roast for 20 minutes
   
4. while the sausages are roasting, make the batter. Sift in the flour into a bowl. drop the egg into the centre and beat in the milk a little at a time until it makes a smooth batter. Stir in the mustard and thyme and season.
   
5. Pour the batter into the sausages and return to the oven for 40 minutes until the batter fluffs, looks golden and baked.
   

Enjoy ...... Merry Christmas 2008!

Cesky Krumlov - Czech's world best historical destination!

In Nov/Dec 2008, the National Geographic Traveler magazine rated the best historical destination and they named one of the places in Czech Republic, and it is not Prague.  Guess ..... it is the UNESCO listed medieval town of Cesky Krumlov.


Just as I wanted to write about this place, I found out this timely information.  So, if you plan to go to Czech Republic next time, see if you want to put Cesky Krumlov into your itinerary.  (By the way, the magazine also selected our very own Georgetown, Penang and Melaka as their best historical destinations, google it to find out.)

Cesky Krumlov is a very cosy place, with its well preserved castle, church and all the township still conjure that medieval feel, I kind of like walking into the time when the king's horses and the king's men couldn't put humpty dumpty back together again - that kind of feel!  We were there having lots of time to walk around the town and can pick up our lunch if we want.


The bus was not allowed to enter into the place so it has to be parked a distance away.  All of us walked into this walled-city built like a fort.  Those were the times when they were afraid that there will be a midnight onslaught from another town, those knights and slayers with swords and bows and arrows, burning oils and shooting fire into the sky.  But now it remain a town that has preserved everything but the brutality of that era.


Walking in the town gave this movie-images, maybe I have read or watched too much kings and knights story.  


Very peaceful indeed.  We had a great time walking into those little shops that serves coffee and ice-cream in winter.  And knick knack shops selling what-else, but knick knacks.  Cafe was just a reminiscence of those old romantic Audrey Hepburn movies where they sip some coffee and talk about love the whole summer sitting outside a cobbled-stone paved walkway, while Gary Grant looked into her eyes and promised her all the world while stroking her satin-glove clad hands.


Beautiful, just beautiful .........

Borobudur - gateway to unconditional Love!

Borodudur has been calling me for a long time since I started traveling more than 2 decades ago. Looking at those photos of the 7 man-made wonders of the world then, I always wondered why have I been to see so many wonders of the world but still not Borobudur which is the closest to Malaysia. I guess because it is so close, I tend to want to go furthest first.

So, I was counting the places I have left my footprints and noted the following world wonders :

1. Leaning Tower of Pisa
   
2. Great Wall of China
   
3. Eiffel Tower of Paris
   
4. Angkor Wat of Cambodia
   
5. The Pyramids of Giza
   
6. Taj Mahal of India
   

Then, there is the Garden of Babylon which is no more in existence. And finallly, there is Borobudur. There are, however, many ancient monuments that are not listed but they are as magnificence in the way they are built as those listed ones. They have always left for us subtle messages about our universe. The deep emotional feelings you will get when you close your eyes and open your hearts, you will definitely feel the presence of unconditional love.

 

Borobudur emits the same effects of unconditional love as you climb through its 10-level of symbolic  enlightenment passages. As you would circumambulate the galleries and terraces at every level, you will feel without doubt the peace within.

There are not a lot of guest houses within walking distance from the Borobudur complex. There is a Manohara Hotel which has rooms from Rp400,000 onwards (RM140), but you get to walk into Borobudur anytime during opening hours and a special permission for house guests to also include a sunrise walkabout. If you stay in the resort-like hotel, you get to go into Borobudur compound without having to pay extra for the entrance ticket.

The entrance ticket (or you may call it the conservation fund) is USD11 per person for 1-day pass. I can use the ticket to go in at 6am when it opens and stay throughout the day until 5pm or I can re-enter anytime. 

I checked into a Lotus I guest house with room costs only Rp60,000 (RM15) with a fan, a Queen-size bed with an attached bath. If there are 2 of us, we can share the cost. Very affordable, shoe-string budget traveling at its best!

No written record that can confirm how old is Borobudur but many claim that it dates back to the 8th century, almost the same time as Angkor Wat.  It is a very fascinating structure with 1,460 bas-reliefs on its walls depicting cause and effects at the lowest level, Jataka tales (stories which Gautama told the people after he gained enlightenment as the Buddha) at the middle levels, and the highest few levels are in circular design, going round without beginning and end. Isn't that what life is? It never ends, just got to repeat all the stuff and issues until we learnt it, I guess that is what enlightenment means.

I got myself a bicycle and I rode to visit other places in the vicinity while I also enjoyed the foods with such delicacies like barbecued duck, soto nasi (rice) with chicken and a cup of 3-in-1 chocolate - all for Rp9,500 (RM2.50). Well, great food at a fraction of what we can get in KL.

Travel Wear

Question :

What are some of the things, especially clothes, you pack when you travel?

Answer :

This is a very wide open question.  What I pack depends on where I go.  And also over the years, I began to pack more lightly but yet dress in more style, even when I backpack, compare to my early traveling years.  

When I began backpacking, I was only 21 years old.  The simplest the better (but not necessarily lightest), because travel budget was a big co

ncern.  The more I travel, the least I carry because now I know how to choose light clothing and buy better quality fleece shirt and winter wears.  

You may need to consider a few things before you pack or buy traveling stuff :

• which country are you going to?
  
• what is the weather?
  
• what type of accommodation will you check in?
  
• what are the main tourist attraction?
  
• how many days will you be there?
  
• are you going to other places apart from this?

Lets begin with - which country and what is the weather?

You can check it out before you start packing.  This is very difficult to generalise. It really depends what you will be doing when you are there.  Example, if you decide to go to Nepal but not to the trekking range, then you may not need so many stuff.  Or some may go to Indonesia which is usually warm throughout and go up to Mount Bromo, which is very cold even during the day. Or you may want to go to Tasmania in summer/spring, but it is cold in Cradle Mountain.  So, decide where you want to go and we will discuss from there.  

For me, I always choose clothing that are light even for winter wear, acrylic is light

, thermal wear is light too.  Most of the countries I went except those in South East Asia, are very dry, humidity is low.  So, most of the clothes I can wear for 3 days before washing them. I bring my own powder soap detergent. Most backpacking hostel has clothes line but has no clothes peg, so I bring my own.

These were the only "luggage" I had when I was in Hanoi for 5 days. I only carried a knapsack at my back and a sling bag in front. Very easy for me to get around anywhere I wanted to go. When I got tired, I just sat in front of Hoan Kiem Lake in central Hanoi close to the old Quarter too, and had a wonderful time in its 20 degrees temperature and a cooling breeze. But Sa Pa was very cold at 1600m above sea level, so I got a zip-up jumper too. Read more about my recent trip, next article in my blog.

What are the main tourist attraction you will be visiting?

If you are going to a place that has a lot of religious followings, such as India, China, Europe, Thailand, and mostly throughout South East Asia, I always respect the places I visit.  So, I wear long pants, cotton and light, wherever I go. I don't know if I will enter a religious place or not, so to safe from packing thing I don't need, I pack all long pants and shirts, no shorts for me except to sleep.  By the way, packing button up shirts are lighter than T-shirts, and plain cotton pants are lighter than jeans even when it gets wet.

If you are in Bali, bring sarong.  You will need sarong to enter a temple even if you are already wearing long pants. You will need to wrap it around from your waist down for men and women.

Where will you spend the night?

Most backpackers Inn do not supply blankets and pillows, especially places I visited in India, Eqypt, Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, South Africa and many more. Some places like Australia, you have to pay for pillows and blankets (some provide pillows for free but never blankets).  So, always pack your sleeping bags. I don't bring pillow.  If pillow is not provided, I will use my bag.

Since you will be crawling into your sleeping bag, you may want to bring extra sleeping clothes for warmth, if you are going to a place that is below 10c.  

Bali - Romantic Sita Spa Package, you will drool...

I have never been to Bali.  

Many friends were surprised when I told them that, "What? You mean you have been around the world but you have never been to Bali!?" 

In July this year, I finally got the chance to visit Bali.  And I drooled over it.  I loved it so much I vowed to be back next year.  

I have heard so much about Bali from friends, read rave reviews from Travel Magazines.  When I was in the Interior Design business, some of my clients told me to look for Balinese designs.  Of course I did learn a bit about Bali, but I have no idea what is there that captured everyone's heart and perhaps.....soul too.

Until July 2008, I know what being Bali-ed means.  I was totally head over heels with the people, the culture, the food, the lifestyle and the sacred devotion to mother nature that is so widely practiced by the Balinese people.  Amidst all the bustling activities in Kuta or the arty-scenes in Ubud or the nature-infused highlands surrounding Mt Agung, you will find everyone in Bali devote their time to prayers.  You will notice little square bowls made of all natural leaves and flowers adorn their streets, their shops and the interiors of their houses. Most houses are intricately landscaped to blend in with nature.

I was in Tanah Lot Temple grounds.  There is only 1 hotel in the Temple grounds, others are within walking distance away.  So, when I stay inside the Temple grounds, I don't need to pay entrance fee everytime I walk into the park.

The hotel rates is very reasonable.  I paid Rp200,000 (RM70) for a night's stay in a room meant for 2 persons.  The room is with attached bath, a king-size bed, tv and chairs.  Like a junior  suite room but minus all the 5-star glitters.  Very simple setting but nice.  Breakfast is included.  

I was the hotel guest, so I got a special price for a 3-hour Balinese spa.  Let me share with you this, it will drool you over, the package is called Romantic Sita, it includes :

• Foot flower bath
• Balinese traditional full body massage
• Lulur Sinta full body scrub
• Flower bath
• Cream hair treatment (include head and shoulder massage)
• Foot massage
• Herbal tea with ginger

Normal price USD50 for 3 hours.

I got all the above for only USD35.  It was so relaxing and rejuvenating, I still think about it after so many months.

Traveler's Check, Cash or Credit Card?

(I have been asked many times questions about how to travel wisely especially about things to bring, hotel stay, places to visit and ground transportation etc.  I will write a series of these things and post them periodically with all my other stories here in this blog. Enjoy the read.  If you have things you want to know about traveling, do write in to me and I will provide the answers through my traveling experience....... not from what you get in travel guides.  Well.... the guidebooks are all great, I just prefer to travel with my open heart ... and an open mind.)

Question :

When you travel, is it better to bring cash in local currency, Traveler's Check or Credit Card?

Answer :

I travel using Credit Cards and a little cash in local currency.  

However, how much cash you need depends on which country you will be visiting and where you go.  If you are going to Nepal and trek the Annapurna Range, then credit cards are useless.  In South Africa though, credit cards are used wherever you are, even to the National Parks and when you pay for your trekkings, they all accept credit cards for any amount.

My first backpacking experience was to New Zealand via Melbourne and en route Sydney.  It was about 20 years ago.  Credit cards were not issued that easily then.  But Traveler's Check was the most raved about international exchange document.  The setback was I need to pay commission when I buy the Traveler's Check and pay again another commission when I en-cash the checks.  There are banks who don't charge commission for en-cashing the checks, I just got to look out for them.  It was not so much of a problem, the main reason I stopped using Traveler's Checks after my first backpacking experience was because .....I had hard time trying to sign on so many pieces of the checks when I could not move my fingers, they were so numbed in winter, I can't move the strokes to sign my name.

That was the first and the last time I ever carried with me Traveler's Checks.

Credit Cards are still the best money exchange tool, why?

• they are save and easy to carry;
• they are accepted worldwide;
• you can use first then pay later;
• exchange rate is sometimes better than the rates you get from the foreign country;
• high credit limit so you don't have to worry if you need more cash than you budgeted;
• you can get cash when you have finished with the local currency and you don't have other available currency to exchange, you can fall back easily on your reliable plastic;
• you can en-cash it easily, just produce it to a bank officer and he will give you cash without charging a commission** (but you will need to pay finance charges to your issuing bank);
• it saves you from exchanging too much local currency where you don't use when you come home (imagine having too much Laos kip or Vietnam dong or Kenyan shilings).

**I was in Cairo and I had used up my Egyptian pound.  I was alone. I wanted an early flight home but all flights were full.  So, I had to stay in Cairo for a few more days.  And my credit card got me the cash at the same exchange rate, no commission.

**I was in Sri Lanka and spent all my Sri Lankan Rupees, because I did not know that I need to pay airport tax.  I took it for granted that the airport tax was already paid with my flight ticket.  I did not have US Dollars and to my horror, that was the day when Malaysian Ringgit was suspended for forex trading, remember that day in 1997? I can't pay my airport tax, which means I can't get on my flight.  And you know what saved the day?  I en-cashed my credit card.  Long live the plastic...

Important note :

Please call your issuing bank and let them know where you will be with your credit cards and how long will you be staying there.  Always do this before you travel, and you will be rest assured of your payment going through once your cards are swiped.

Sacred prayers in Lourdes, France

Recent week, we got a lot of news from the Vatican where the Pope went to Lourdes in France for the annual pilgrimage where Bernadette saw Mother Mary's apparition 150 years ago (1858). I was there once, and I was totally enthralled by the grotto. I don't why, I am drawn to sacred places like this without actually knowing about it. Other "Christian" pilgrimage places I have been led there were Fatima in Portugal and Mount Sinai in Egypt. I think I have got more, but these are the 3 most significant. And also, I remember I went to Virgin Mary's holy house in Turkey where she spent her last remaining years. Cool eh...?

You can see in the pictures that pilgrims drink the water from the grotto. They made the tap very easy to reach and drink from. Then, some will take the water in containers and big tub to take home. In that little town of Lourdes, they even made small Mother Mary figurine as plastic water container for you to take water home too.

It was a very serene and peaceful place. I prayed with all my heart in the chapel up above the catheral.

Bing! **A Very Starry Cafe in Kuching

I have been to Kuching before, but most of the time was mainly for traveling and visiting national parks and beach resorts. These 3 years were different, I added business to my leisure pursuit, so meeting friends, closing deals and also continue to enjoy the leisurely swing-along lifestyle down-under.

One place to hang out, where you MUST go, really, MUST - is a to a cafe called Bing! Everytime I am in Kuching, I can't help it but drop by in Bing! for a cuppa and chat with friends. Sometimes for lunch, then we left, and I will come back with other friends for coffee and cakes till evening. Dehyana, Jaime and Jennifer were there with me once and for 3 days we were in Kuching, we dropped into Bing! everyday for 3 days.

My friends and I loved Bing! because of its ambience, big leather 3-seater sofas with ottomans, and huge borneo hardwood coffee table, designers stand lamps and table lamps, cane-weaved arm-chairs and most of it, they have the most funny, bubbly, outrageous, friendly, laughing and caring maitre'd (waiters and waitresses). One of them I always like to talk to is DeDe! He makes one of the warmest smirk, likeable, charming and fun, you will definitely like to know him. When you are there, say "HI" for me.

I was there again last week, and DeDe had the most shining hair-do, straight, no-nonsense, but shines like satin-silk. I told him when he put down his hair, he looks so gorgeous. I can't help but to take a picture to show you his great looks.

In the photos, the top one was Chiew Chin and Mariam (this photo taken about 2 years ago), where we had fruits smoothies (blackberry and strawberry) and their famous melt-in-your mouth tiramisu.  And also, my pic with DeDe 2 years ago, his hair was shorter then.

The bottom pic was Hian Ling, me and DeDe just last week, we had their new coffee concoction : the Rhumba - chocolate cookies blended with coffee and chocolate topped with choc bics. 

I can't resist, I got to order the Oreo cookies cheese cake, OMG, I was in choc-heaven!! 

Kuching Food you can't get in KL!

I took some pictures of some foods I had in Kuching last 4 days. These are some you may want to try the next time you are there :

3 layer teh c peng


Yes, it is called such and spell this way too. It is special because the bottom-most layer is palm sugar (maybe same as gula melaka), the next layer on top is milk and then tea is added later. When it is served, you will see 3 layers until you stir it. And it taste natural gula melaka and strong white tea. Very natural taste for those who like gula melaka. Some even serve 7 layers, you can try that and let me know.

Curry mee Kuching style


Very simple, like the curry we had in KL but it has some special spice we may not get here, will try to find out what they are the next time when I am there.

Ba-chang


Mary bought me some ba-chang (glutinous rice wrapped in triangular shape with leaf). Notice the ba-chang leaf is fresh, not the sun-dried ones we used to wrap here. And the ingredients are ground nuts and minced meat, and lots of condiments.

Sarawak has very unique plants/vegetables where even the names baffles me. They have bidin, looks like our paku-pakis but softer in texture, cooked with belacan too.

And their Sarawak laksa is every Kuchingites favorite recommendation. I totally immersed in its laksa, love it. Will get some pics to show next time.

Lemongrass Chicken

This is a very easy dish to make for dinner.  Look like a lot of work, but it is not.  My cooking is about feelings, so if you really ask me how much to put into a dish, I really don't have a perfect measurement.  Pastry and cakes, we need to be accurate with the measurement, but when it comes to Asian cooking especially for dinner with rice or noodles, I play it up with my feelings.

It is like how many stalks of lemongrass I use for this dish?  Depends on how sweet the smell I would like for this dish.  So, my advice is, be in a great blissful mood when you cook, and you dish will turn up according to your mood.  Really, believe me!  It works for me anyway....that is why cooking is so easy and simple for me and I truly like it.  

If I am ever going to write a cookbook, I may as well call it Agak-Agak, because all my Asian Delights, apart from sweets and desserts, are all according to my feelings and yes, I always agak-agak (estimate) the amount of ingredients I need.

Lemongrass Chicken

Serves 2 or 4 with other dishes

Preparation time : 20 mins

Cooking time : 20 mins (longer if needed for tenderness)

Ingredients :

1/4 Chicken - cut to bite-size pieces

Oil for cooking

Lemongrass - 8 stalks or more (roughly chopped)

Shallots - about 10 or more

Ginger - how big? up to you!!

Belacan - powder, about 2 tsp

Turmeric powder, about 2 tsp (next time I should use fresh Turmeric)

Chili paste - up to your palate

Star anise and clove - up to you!!

Water - how much? depends how thick the gravy you want

Blend lemongrass, shallots, ginger, belacan, chili paste and turmeric powder until it becomes a paste.  Add a little water if it is too dry, especially if you use chili powder.

Add star anise and cloves to the hot oil for flavor. Add in the blended paste. Fry until fragrant. Add in the chicken. Fry until the paste has covered all chicken pieces. Add water to your preference. Leave to boil. Then, turn to medium heat and continue boiling until chicken is soft. Season to taste.

Note : if no shallots at the time of cooking, you can use onions. Next time I cook this dish again, I may want to try with other spices, like leaves, such as daun ketumbar and other daun-daun and see how it taste.

Laptop dies while I catch up on the beat!!

Many things had happened since the last update on my blogsite.  First, my laptop had finally refused to boot up in May 2008, and all my files and photos are stuck in the hard disk drive.  Got my friend to transfer all to an external hard disk.  

In fact, 1 Jan 2008, my laptop was so invaded by virus, it abducted all (yes, I mean ALL including all my photos) my files to cyberspace.  When i turned it on, it was empty, totally new as if I had just purchased a new computer.  But I was ok, files gone just got to start all over again.  Maybe I just needed that to write with my "new" evolved mind with "new" English terms and words.  So, I was happy with a new lease of writing style rather than to refer to my old ones.

Then, I went around looking for a new computer to buy, after about 2 months of anlysis, I settled on getting an iMac.  Amazing creation.  No CPU tower, just the screen, a mouse and a keyboard.  All with just one 3-pin plug and wallah, save so much space and so user friendly.

Now, need time to work on the new softwares.  Working to get all my works on iWork, a software similar to Windows but 100x more creative and slick!!

Will talk about my adventure with Apple later.

Then, I went on my sojourn - 2 weeks from Kuta Beach in Bali, to Mt Bromo in Java and then onward journey to Joyja, then an hour motorcycle ride to Borobudur.  All without prior knowledge of where to go and what to expect.  None at all, no hotel bookings, don't even have an itinerary where to go.  Just got a ticket that flew me to Denpasar and a ticket to fly back from Jogja to KL.  That's it!!  And it turned out to be so beautiful!!

Then, to my favorite country, India, for another life changing connection.  

Phew......missing in writing but this is it, just squeeze myself to do some update on my blog.

In the meantime, lets enjoy life.....

Solo fine dining treat in Brisbane!

After more than 2 weeks traversing southern Australia, from Melbourne trekking into Grampians National Park to taking the ferry across the Bass Straits into Tasmania, then walking and trekking and staying in lodges at National Parks, cooking my own meals and having all the fresh air and fresh seafoods, I just needed to rest.

So, when finally I got on the plane to leave Hobart and flew into Brisbane, I told myself I am going to take a good rest in Brisbane for 3 days before taking the flight back to Kuala Lumpur. And lo and behold, once I said that, I arrived in Brisbane almost midnight. All the shops were closed and the streets were deserted. Hardly any cars in downtown Brisbane. I was trapped. I did not know where to go to find a place to stay. I don't plan my trip, you see, not like most people who book their accommodation way ahead of time, most backpackers traveling in Australia did the same, they plan ahead and book their dorm-room early so that when they arrive, they will tell the van driver where they want to go and they are dropped at the dorm's doorstep.

So, I thought it will be easy for me to find a place to stay. But I did not have the slightest idea that even dorms can be filled up too, especially in Brisbane. I experienced the fully booked situation when I was in St Kilda, a beach resort town about 30 minutes away from Melbourne, then I had to turn back to Melbourne carrying my rucksack the whole day, only to put it down when my shoulder almost gave way and I had to stop at a cafe for lunch. But that time was because St Kilda had their music festival, so everyone flocked there to watch and be merry.

I never thought that Brisbane will be the same - and in the middle of the night too!!

When I was dropped off in the middle of downtown Brisbane, I walked with my rucksack, looking for dorm. No map, don't know where to go, no one to ask, and it was dark, 12 midnight!! So, I just walked, and my rucksack got heavier and heavier. After about half an hour walk, now 12.30am, I found that the road I had taken leads to no dorm but to some factory area, got to turn back to town. Then, for another 30 minutes, I found a dorm operator but it was full, heck!! Walked again, now the rucksack is eating into my flesh. Found another backpackers inn, also full. Already 1am, walked some more, this time I was beginning to yawn, found a bench and sat a while. Saw 7-11, aha, it will be a good place to ask. Dragged myself up and walked towards the 7-11 store. Oh, great, a Chinese guy on duty, maybe he will know where I can find a place to stay, now already 2am. When I spoke to him, I realised that he could not understand English well, he tried his very best to listen but he could not get my message, I gave up, I spoke to him in Mandarin instead, then realised that he is from mainland China and he just started work. Oh well, 2.30am. Walked again, now feet began to feel heavy and body is tired. I took a corner and suddenly remembered that the van just passed this place and dropped 2 passengers to check into a backpackers inn, I hurriedly walk towards a well-lit building. Prayed, pushed open the door, it was 3am, prayed again, and ask for a dorm bed. The guy at the counter, obviously very oblivious to how I tired I looked, or maybe he is so used to see backpackers looking worn out, he did not answer that there is a dorm bed available, he just stated the price and assumed I to "seal" the contract. Of course, I was relieved, at 3am, I checked into a room, climbed onto the bed above a double-decker bunk, did not even bother to take my shower, don't even know who are the people snoring below me and at the next bunk beds - I lay my sleepy head and my very very heavy body and slept like a log...zzzzzzzz.....

I woke up late in the morning, washed up and headed to town for a sumptuous fine-dining treat. My image consultant friend eyes and ears popped out after hearing my story, "Aiyoh, you can go for fine dining alone? In Brisbane!?!?!?" I said why not, I enjoyed myself the way I wanted it, great! Love the foods in Brisbane. Very breezy town and I just walked in the shopping streets all 3 days, sitting most of the time enjoying a cup of coffee and a piece of delectable chocolate cake, yummy...yum yum!!

The Faces, The Phases - Taj Mahal

I suddenly have a strong desire to want to find out actually when was the year I went to India for the first time. I went looking for my old passports, which I still keep all of it since my first one. The passports have all the dates of my travel over the past 20 years. Looking at all the stamping on all the pages by so many different customs all over the world left me in an awe-inspiring state. I am thrilled that over so many years, I have carried out my dreams to travel the world and defined my destiny so clearly.

Having found my date to India, which happened in Jan 1998, 10 years ago, I also found the article I wrote to my friends when I came back from my trip then. I extract some passages and keep the essence as pure as it was written that 10 years ago. I can't tell you how impressed I am with the way I expressed myself through my writings then. Eventhough some of the words I may have used differently now if I were to re-write, but I like to leave it that way because that was how I felt 10 years ago and it was all good :

"India - a place where living survived and the survivors thrived, a place I would love to go back again and again to bathe in the vast plain of romanticism and adventures. Especially the Thar desert which I had missed this time......."

"I was in Agra for the Taj Mahal, the most romantic building in the world. I just finished reading the book "A Suitable Boy" by Vikram Seth before I embarked on my journey. When I was standing on the pavement overlooking the river at the back of the Taj Mahal, one scene from the book came gushing back at me. It was the scene where a boy who is pursuing literature and love reading poetry tried to woo the girl of his dream by taking her on a boat (sampan) ride on the river over sunset. While they were rowing through the river, he showed and explained to her a king who built the Taj Mahal in memory of his queen who died during labour. The Taj Mahal was built with marbles, emeralds and semi-precious stones. The monument now stands as a testament to his unrelenting love to his wife. As what Rabindranath Tagore, the 1st Bengali recipient of the Nobel Prize for Literature, wrote in Hindi about Emperor Shah Jahan's heartfelt grieve when it was built :

....was to preserve forever your heart's pain....

That at least a single, eternally-heaved sigh

would stay to grieve the sky.

Though emeralds, rubies, pearls are all ...

But as the glitter of a rainbow tricking out empty air

and must pass away,

Yet still one solitary tear ...

would hang on the cheek of time

in the form of this white and gleaming Taj Mahal.

"After this, I visited the Fort/Palace where King Akbar Khan built and resided during his reign. This palace now lies overlooking the Taj Mahal which is only 1 km away. From here, I went further south to small village called Fatehpur Sikri. This was the place where the same King actually built his palace but abandoned it and moved to Agra just one year later. So, now in Fatehpur Sikri stood his old Mosque in a square and a huge palace. It was worth a visit. But no one knows why he moved out in just one year."

Wow, you see, that was my feelings of Taj Mahal 10 years ago when I first visited it. Now, if I go back, I would have a totally new experience because "you don't step into the same river twice" so said Buddha.